The cheese saga begins

This pecorino has a past.

In the late ’60s, Uncle Al, hoping that he could tame the odor, wrapped and rewrapped several round slabs Poppy had requested and stuffed them in a bag. The cheese went through Customs safely. His clothes that shared the bag, however, had to be thrown out. No matter how many times they were washed, the smell wouldn’t go away.

But to some, the pain is worth the gain. In 2000, Uncle Bruno and JoAnn devoured the portion of the thick cheese pie Poppy gave them as a gift from his last visit to Sant’Andrea. The cheese, which is made by a goat herder, or pecoraro, near Sant’Andrea, was shared equally between Uncle Bru, Aunt Vera and Dad.

“The cheese was gone in two days,” recalled Uncle Bruno, who tried to hide his infatuation with the formaggio by sneaking some upstairs to munch on. But the smell of the cheese, of uncleaned feet, gave him away, and JoAnn caught him in the act.

We had no choice but to bring at least one pie back to Poppy from this trip. And by the second day, he called three times to remind us.

So we Uncle Bru set up a visit for the next day with Nino, Nanny’s second cousin from her mother’s side. Nino was supposed to have the cheese ready.

We thought it would be easy. It turned out to be an adventure.

‘The last guy had a heart attack’

After our dip, Nino expressed surprised that we survived the treacherous November waters. “The last guy had a heart attack,” he said. Or at least I think that’s what he said.

We made it to Rome!

We’re in a hotel about 2 blocks away from Rome — we got in at around 11 last night after about 10 hours on the road [again]. Sant’Andrea was simply amazing. I put virtually all of the pictures from the town on the lap top I borrowed from Jackie, so here are a few I took yesterday.

MIA CUGINA: Daniela, Zia Nuzza and Zio Al were phemonenally gracious hosts for 5 days in Sant’Andrea. Daniela essentially runs the town using her quick wit and infectious sense of humor.

PECORINO DEGLI PECORARI: This guy, it turns out, was the most important person we met in Calabria. He’s Mimo Pirritano, the goat herder, whose family has been making cheese for more than 200 years. Everything we did this week revolved around when we could get the cheese for my grandfather. MUCH more on this later.

Nino Lijoi, a cousin of my grandfather, took us on a couple of, um, interesting adventures. He took us just about everywhere in the Sant’Andrea area, whether we wanted him to or not.
Nino, who built a huge house in Isca, a neighboring town, all by himself, has a thick Andreolesi accent. Thank God Uncle Bruno knew what he was saying. All I understood was “Frine, veini qua!” That’s when he called for his dog.

FUNNY TO MEET YOU HERE: Uncle Bruno with cousin Bruno Frustaci and his wife. We met them at the Soverato market, where we got the Godsent cheese.

Uncle Bruno and I spent about 10 hours on the road, much of it overlooking the Amalfi Coast. Videos to come.