If you’ve never been there, or would like a refresher, here’s what it looks like. I’m not the best photographer, but it gets better after the first minute.
Part I (YouTube only fits so much stuff)
Part II
See more Sant’Andrea videos on my playlist.
If you’ve never been there, or would like a refresher, here’s what it looks like. I’m not the best photographer, but it gets better after the first minute.
Part I (YouTube only fits so much stuff)
Part II
See more Sant’Andrea videos on my playlist.
Nanny’s brother, Angelo, lives in what looks like a mini brownstone in the center of town, where most of the activity, such as it is this time of year, is based.
The tree-lined street has a bed of stone, with a mixture of small shops and homes, including Zio Angelo’s, on either sided. It’s obviously “uptown,” whereas Aunt Nuzza’s house, Nanny’s old house, is in “malajira” section. I thought it was a joke at first, but they are serious. When we asked a woman for directions, we mentioned our relationship to Aunt Nuzza, and it only clicked when she connected the dots to “Malu jira. ”
In short, legend has it that 150 years ago or more, a person who was killed and mutilated was found in the area where Aunt Nuzza’s house now stands. It’s been considered the “bad way” since then, lon
g before the house was built in 1925, the same year Nanny was born.
After a scheduling hiccup with our ailing cousin Marie Antoinette (she has a broken leg), we got to visit Zio Angelo and his wife, Anna Maria. Angelo turned 92 years old last Monday.
The house was warm as far as I could tell, but the two were cuddled next to each other as if the Arctic had dropped into their laps. They shared a blanket and each had on a wool hat. Best of all, though you can’t see it in this picture, each had a throw pillow at their feet — no reason, really, it just rounded out the motif.
Uncle Al says they were virtually bare compared to most days.
Famously, Zio Angelo and Zia Anna Maria eat a spoonful of pastini mixed with water each day that it stirred for a long, long time. People say they don’t eat anything else, but I don’t believe it.
I’ll save you from the hour’s worth of video we took of them for now, but we got to talk about the war and Zio Angelo’s role as vice mayor of the town for 6 years. No, he wasn’t mayor, but acted in that capacity because the actual mayor was an architect based in Rome for much of that time.
He said he got into politics because he, as an articulate socialist, didn’t want communists taking over.
He also filled us in on another family member, his great grandfather, Vito Codispoti. No one else I’ve spoken could remember that far back.
Here’s something cool: Uncle Angelo’s old passport. (His full name is Angiolino.)
After Graziela gave us all the time she had available, she brought us up to meet the mayor, Maurizio Lijoi.
Maurizio took one look at the family tree and said, “I think we’re related.” Of course we are, I thought. 
At first, I thought we might be connected through Nanny’s paternal grandmother, Maria Vittoria Lijoi, who I learned was born in 1864.
Instead, Maurizio said he thought it was through Nanny’s maternal grandmother, Caterina Armogida.
Dropping whatever he was working on, the mayor led Uncle Al and I back downstairs into the archive room and immediately began rifling through many of the same books we saw earlier, finding a connection, then moving on to another book.
Graziela told us the records dated back to 1865, but the mayor had a secret stash dating back several years earlier. That’s where he found it. As far as I can tell from his handwriting, I think his great grandfather, Francesco Armogida, was Caterina’s brother. That connection dates back to the mid 1800s.
Not to be intimidated, Uncle Bruno did what I considered to be unthinkable just hours earlier and ventured down the alley in our Fiat Panda. I shouldn’t have been surprised. He is a former Marine, after all.
Make sure to watch till the end.
The last time Uncle Bruno visited Sant’Andrea, the trip up the mountains to the old monastery in Serra San Bruno took more than 3 hours. There was no paved road — only a bumpy dirt path better suited for dune buggies than toy cars. Must have been lots of fun with Poppy in the car.
Nowadays, the trip takes about 25 minutes — if you don’t get lost like we did. One wrong turn and you could wind up far away real fast. We stopped an old lady who was scrunched in her hatchback to avoid the large tree branches see was carrying to a mountaintop village. Surprisingly (kidding here), she wore a black dress and black scarf. The branches reached from her dashboard to several feet out the back of her open trunk. Lumberjacks in the area leave leftovers on the side of the road as fuel for locals to fire up their chimneys.
Uncle Albert regularly visits the this area of the mountains to forage for wild mushrooms. (For the record, I tasted several. I didn’t know the pasta was going to be filled with them, and I couldn’t turn them down. I think it’s testament to Uncle Al’s cooking skills or the land’s special cultivating ability, or both, that I kept them down. Don’t anyone get any ideas!)
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