Round and Round We Go

One thing about Italian drivers — they’re nuts. And if you abide by the rules, they think you’re nuts.

We quickly learned in our 10-hour trip from Rome to Sant’Andrea to move out of the left lane if anyone was behind us, because no matter how fast we were going, they wanted to go faster.

We were routinely high-beamed, honked at and nearly pushed off the road by teeny weeny cars whose drivers felt they had to go as fast as their cars would take them. For us, that meant 130 kilomoters per hour, or 80 mph. Our Fiat Panda simply refused to go any faster, even downhill.

The trip down to Sant’Andrea was an experience, but nothing prepared us for driving with Nino.road-sign-roundabout.jpg

Nino kindly volunteered to take us to the supermarket to get groceries for Aunt Nuzza and company. It was the least we could do considering how they had graciously opened their home to us.

Before we got on our way, Nino quietly went upstairs. I didn’t notice he was gone until, no more than five minutes later, he came out looking like Dapper Dan. For our trip to the store Nino had quick-changed from his gardening outfit into a pinstriped suit.

It was a a mind-boggling contrast from just minutes earlier that took me some adjusting to.

With Nino all spiffied up, we proceeded.

A minute from Nino’s house toward the Davoli supermarket — the only one open between 1 p.m. and 4 p.m., when everything closes for an extended lunch — you come to a roundabout.

Here’s how it’s supposed to go: You go to the right and the guy coming from the other direction goes to his right, allowing for a continuously flow of traffic.

Easy, right?

Silly American.

Nino’s the type of guy who has to turn his head every time he talks, which usually means he slows down at best or veers off course and slows down, supremely ticking off decidedly impatient Italian drivers.

As we approached the nicely manicured roundabout, Nino was doing his driving-while-talking routine and slowed down near the entrance. He proceeded around the right side, but the guy behind him, apparently peeved by Nino’s dawdling, zoomed around the left side and lunged to cut us off.

Nino would have none of it. He and downshifted from third to first gear and bursted into an assembly of curses that would have been difficult for anyone to follow. With the car’s engine screaming, we jettisoned around the roundabout.

Now, all I was thinking in this blink of a moment was “Please God, I want to see my girls again.”

Surprisingly, we didn’t die. In fact, Nino won. We squeaked ahead of the wrong-way driver.

Even after his victory, Nino continued his litany of curses, calling the other guy crazy and who knows what else. (All I heard was “Buh buh buh buh buh.”)

Uncle Bruno, being the smart guy he is, repeatedly agreed with Nino about the other guy and entirely overlooked the actions of Mario Andretti to his left.

The good news is that we survived. Nino helped us get the best bargains in the store and even treated us to Italian McDonald’s.

We got back to Nino’s each with our respective pieces in places.

After swigging down some of Nino’s homemade coffee liquor (gasoline) and chatting with some of Poppy’s old friends (help me here, Uncle Bruno), we agreed to come back the next day for lunch with Nino and his wife. Then we would be allowed to get the cheese. He told us he would take us to the guy who sold the cheese at the Soverato open market on Friday. We’d go just before we left for Rome.

I should have known that there would be a lot more to the story before that happened.

Nino fakes us out

I remember meeting Nino once or twice as a kid when he visited by grandparents’ house. They called him “Travolta” because he often boasted about his dancing skills. His hair was also usually combed in “Saturday Night Fever” style.

That was a long time ago, and Uncle Bruno reminded me to nix any thought of calling him Travolta for fear of death. I agreed, but I couldn’t get the picture of a disco ball out of my head.293satnightfever102407.jpg

Arriving at Nino’s house on the border of Isca, the first thing you notice is an imposing black electronic gate. On the right of his property is a field of olive trees owned by an engineer who lives in Rome. Nino’s own olive and mandarin trees block the house to the left, but I’m sure it’s considerably smaller. The Leaning Tower of Pisa is smaller.

“Ciao, Nino, e’ Bruno!” Uncle Bru called through the telecom, his face nearly hitting the receiver.

No answer.

“Ciao, Nino, e’ Bruno!”

Niente.

On the third try, the gate slowly slid open. No one appeared immediately, so Uncle Bruno and I walked down the long cement driveway, passed Nino’s olive trees to our left, until we came to an opening. Olives were strewn on the cement, and some were placed on a towel, apparently to dry.

Nino’s house is three stories tall, all orange brick, with terraces on every level. We went onto the first terrace — which overlooks the olive and mandarin trees, as well as pomegranate and fig trees — to look for an opening. There was a door, but it was not the main opening, so we turned to go back down to the driveway.

That’s when Frine appeared from the rear of the house up the long driveway. Frine, named for a character in a 1950′s Italian movie about Cleopatra, is Nino’s old German Shepard who follows Nino wherever he goes. The poor thing limps from arthritis pain, yet still has the ability to open and close doors. Frine takes small leaps that no doubt kill him, but Nino prods him in his loud basso: “Chiudi la porta, Frine!”

Nino emerged in his gardening outfit, his hands, shirt and pants stained with dirt and his mostly white hair mussed up. He had been picview-from-ninos2.jpgking olives that would later be pressed for oil.

Uncle Bruno and Nino chatted it up, I’m assuming about old times, but God only knows. As someone unfamiliar with Nino’s thick Andreolesi accent, though competent in understanding proper Italian, all I heard was “Buh buh buh buh buh.”

And it seems I’m not the only one. There’s a reason Poppy’s voice is the one greeting callers on Nino’s answering machine.

Nino proceeded to show us around. I was at first reluctant to eat a fig from Nino’s tree, but then the old guy handed me one. “Buh buh buh buh buh. Try it.” He spoke two words of English! In that case, as a show of respect, I had to try it. And it was good.

Inside, the house is made of brick, slate and marble. It has six bedrooms, four bathrooms, three living rooms and terraces everywhere — far more than needed for only Nino and his wife.young-nino.jpg

In fact, Nino remarked that before he took us there that day, he hadn’t been to the third-floor terrace in a year and a half.

Nonetheless, what a view! From every angle was a tremendous panorama of untamed land. (In the photo above is Isca, where weather alerts come in the form of clouds rolling over the mountain.)

Again inside, another thing that stood house was a photo of young Nino in every room. Yes, every room. Sure, there were family photos here and there, including one of his father and grandparents, but they were 90 percent Nino, who makes sure to point to his young self stationed on some shelf … in every room.

We asked to take a picture of Nino for posterity’s sake, and he immediately positioned himself next to the upstairs fireplace that he hadn’t used in years. Of course, as in on cue, he called to his dog: “Buh buh buh buh buh buh, Frine! Vieni qua!”

Frine immediately sat with Nino for the picture.

OK, now that we got the grand tour, I was hoping to get the cheese and leave. We had so much to see and so little time.

nino-and-frine.jpgThat’s when Nino dropped the bomb: “Buh buh buh buh buh.” Uncle Bruno translated that into “I don’t have it.”

What?! But Poppy said he had it. We were supposed to go to Nino’s for the cheese. We did out duty, saw the fortress, the trees, the view and the dog, and now it was time to go.

But no. We were behind the iron gate and we would only leave when Nino wanted us to leave.

To be continued …